Replacing the parts...rivets, windows, and vents
The original aluminum jalousie windows cleaned up well with a fine (0000) steel wool and some brasso metal polish. I used 3/16" diameter, 1/2" deep rivets on the side jalousies. I used 1" butyl tape around the perimeter where the window meets the body, and I added a loop of butyl around each rivet.
Replacing the infamous front window was, of course, much harder than expected. After hearing a mix of reviews, I decided to put the lock strip on the exterior.
Ratchet straps were a huge help in flexing the window to get the curve established. I had to sacrifice the straps and cut them after the window was fully seeded, but it was definitely worth it.
I replaced the black trim at the bottom of the body, the white trim around the door, re-polished the aluminum belly band, replaced the running lights, etc.
Painting
After sanding the entire body, I used paint remover to remove paint in the places difficult to access with the orbital sander, namely where the roof arches and near the front and rear frame areas.
As I sanded, the old 70s scamp logos were subtly revealed in a greenish tone that stood out from the off-white original gel coat.
I traced the old tree logos on both sides, and the back onto tracing paper to remake them with a laser cutter. I decided to keep it clean and simple. I will not be adding the red "scamp" decals or pinstripes. I will just have the three sets of green scamp trees.
The interlux rolling and tipping method worked great on the door. I put one coat of pre-kote and two coats of paint with sanding in between.
Since the scamp is so old, it seems necessary to replace all the rivets on the entire exterior to avoid leaks. I read that removing all cabinet/roof rivets at once can make it very difficult to maintain the integrity of the fiberglass and to reassemble the cabinets correctly. In light of this, I taped off a section on the roof of the scamp that will encompass half the rivets on the cabinets and closet structure. I drilled out these rivets, then primed and painted this section of the roof. There will undoubtedly be hints of this taped line in the finished paint job if you get up to the roof to take a look.
I decided to use rivet washers and caps with a bit if butyl on the roof rivets. I am going to leave the remaining rivets exposed on the rest of trailer. Maybe the caps keep water out better? That is the thought. I have read that exposed rivets hold up well too. In any case, the exposed aluminum rivet head is better looking than the plastic caps for the more visible sections of the trailer.
The paint looks great. 1 coat of pre-kote primer and 3 coats of top coat blue.
Painting Prep
Painting the interior
Before prepping the interior for painting, I removed the front and rear windows. I plan to replace the plexi on the front window, and I plan to refurbish the rear jalousie.
I also removed the ice box. I plan to make a new front with new trim and reinstall.
After cleaning the ensolite, I caulked the seams, let the caulk dry, primed all the ensolite, and put another coat of primer on the flooring.
I chose a light yellow for the final coat on the ensolite, and a bright yellow for the step and cabinet kick.
I wired in an LED light to the 120v connection above the sink, and began installing the new cabinet doors.
To finish the day, I put the dinette benches in place to reference mark the flooring and I reinstalled the front bunk.
I also removed the ice box. I plan to make a new front with new trim and reinstall.
After cleaning the ensolite, I caulked the seams, let the caulk dry, primed all the ensolite, and put another coat of primer on the flooring.
I chose a light yellow for the final coat on the ensolite, and a bright yellow for the step and cabinet kick.
I wired in an LED light to the 120v connection above the sink, and began installing the new cabinet doors.
To finish the day, I put the dinette benches in place to reference mark the flooring and I reinstalled the front bunk.
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